Park-to-Park Paddle highlights Monongahela鈥檚 lure
Bridges have carried this columnist over the Monongahela River countless times, mostly at Masontown, and nearly that often at Point Marion and Brownsville, less so at Charleroi, Elizabeth and Pittsburgh. But except for crossings on the unfortunately now-defunct ferry at Fredericktown, I had never been on the mighty Mon鈥檚 surface. That likely says something about the river鈥檚 overlooked allure, since I am a Fayette County native and make a point of savoring the region鈥檚 outdoor options. But that long Monongahela neglect ended on Saturday, Sept. 1, when my wife Kathy and I launched our canoe with 30-some other muscle-powered craft as part of the Park-to-Park paddle trip from Point Marion downriver to Greensboro, sponsored by the Monongahela River Towns Program and the National Road Heritage Corridor.
Another group, similar in size, had made a different Mon journey the week before, from California down to Belle Vernon. The object of both forays was to call attention to the outdoor recreational potential of a river corridor that long was the exclusive domain of heavy industry. As economy transitions in the Mon Valley, the Monongahela River Towns Program aims to help river communities capitalize on their location on the river. As more people appreciate the Mon鈥檚 attractiveness and accessibility, goes the logic, opportunities for river-based economic development and incentive to protect the river corridor will grow.
It took us about 10 minutes to better appreciate the Monongahela as a scenic waterway, cleaner than its outdated reputation. As the flotilla launched from the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission鈥檚 public access in Point Marion鈥檚 community park, several fishing boats probed the far Greene County shoreline. More people fished from shore nearby.
鈥淵ou would never have seen people fishing here when I was a kid,鈥� said John Lichter of Westover, West Virginia, engaged as safety officer for the float-trip. 鈥淭here were no fish of any kind in the Mon back then. But it鈥檚 getting cleaner all the time and the fish, and fishing, are responding. It鈥檚 not perfect yet, but it鈥檚 a huge improvement.鈥�
As Lichter delivered his pre-trip briefing, someone pointed out a large animal swimming near the launch ramp. There was some disagreement about the creature鈥檚 identity until it dove gracefully and slapped its broad tail on the surface, creating a concussive 鈥渨hoom.鈥� I associate beavers with remote lakes and backwoods bogs, and never expected to see one along the Monongahela River shoreline at Point Marion.
Monongahela beavers don鈥檛 need to build dams, as the entire stream from Pittsburgh up to Fairmont is a series of nine tranquil pools held behind dams and their attending locks. The 6-mile trip from Point Marion to Greensboro was made within the impounded pool of the Grays Landing Lock and Dam at Nicholson Township. To paddle downriver beyond Grays Landing, or upriver beyond Point Marion, would require 鈥渓ocking through鈥� to match the adjoining river level. The dams and locks, of course, were built to move barges of coal, steel and other brawny cargos up and down the river, but they now accommodate recreational boaters as part of their role.
鈥淟ocking through is no problem, but it does make you feel small to be inside that chamber,鈥� said Mary Wimmer of Morgantown Area Paddlers, which explores the region鈥檚 waterways by kayak and canoe, including the Monongahela. 鈥淭he guys who run the locks are so friendly to us, but we try to call ahead and let them know we鈥檙e coming.鈥�
The impression gained from the river鈥檚 surface is of a still mostly forested corridor, with wooded hills rising sometimes higher on the east shore, sometimes on the west, but always appealing. The view makes a strong impression as Friendship Hill National Historic Site looms high above river-right on the Fayette County shore. The forest below a high bluff is uninterrupted, and older than the norm. Cardinal flower鈥檚 deep scarlet, rose mallow鈥檚 lavender and sneezeweed鈥檚 bright yellow blooms adorn the shore. The scene could not have looked much different when Albert Gallatin, Thomas Jefferson鈥檚 Secretary of Treasury, inhabited his hilltop mansion concealed within the trees.
Reminders of the region鈥檚 coal heritage are frequent along the course. On both shores, the long-rusted remains of coal-loading ports squat darkly silent, but with proud defiance to time and decay.
As Friendship Hill slid by on the right, a huge bird wheeled above the Greene County horizon. Something about its size and its occasional wing strokes suggested an eagle. Then it turned and caught the sun, and the unmistakable pattern of white head and tail proved that it was an adult bald eagle. A pair of our national symbol has nested on the Cheat River just above Point Marion for several years, and their may be other pairs in residence today. The same improvement in the river that attracts human anglers also lures the eagles. Fish-eaters, they depend on clean (or at least cleaner) water and abundant fish.
As confirmation of the Mon鈥檚 healing fishery, moments after the eagle sighting an osprey winged upriver directly over the group. Even more dependent on fish than are bald eagles, ospreys were once on the state鈥檚 endangered species list, but have recovered markedly in recent years.
Greensboro eventually crept into view on the left bank, with its attractive riverfront cottages and accompanying boat docks. Part of the group tarried there to admire an immense sweet buckeye tree, laden with the leathery husks that contain their buckeye seeds. An uncommon tree in our region, it does grow in isolated locations where the soil is deep and rich.
After the shuttles upstream to retrieve vehicles, most of the group sampled the food and music at the Greensboro Community Festival, concluding an enjoyable and eye-opening day on the Monongahela.
Ben Moyer is a member of the Pennsylvania Outdoor Writers Association and the Outdoor Writers Association of America.